Tooth angle on a Japanese crosscut saw

 

My sincerest apologies to my friends who have been wondering where I've been for the last 2 months. Popular speculation had me suffering an unlikely and grisly demise, fallen to my death in some hidden lava tube, but no....

 

 

 

 

Our house on the mainland Oregon coast sold, and there were a few projects that still needed to be finished up before handing off the keys to the new owner. It's an ironic cliche that the carpenter's house is never finished and this is no different. The cobbler's children that suffer from lack of shoes, that sort of thing. You probably know how it is. Anyways, 3 weeks of intensive house type woodworking, flat winter's lighting and rain. Lots of rain. That's at least one thing that Hawaii and the Oregon coast share.

 

 

Having been in Hawaii now for just over one year, visiting the mainland again reminded me of numerous things that I seem to have already forgotten, but one of the most notable for me was the light. Daylight that is. There's not much of it, and what there is comes at such a low angle, it seemed as though everything looked just the slightest bit "off" to me. Shadows were long and the colors didn't look as vibrant. My iPad evidently forgot about the relatively northern light too. The pictures that I took are, well, not my best. Yeah, blame the camera, haha.

 

 

The stairway to the attic bedroom needed a door and handrail.

 

 

I had to get a bit creative, trying to squeeze a manufactured door and jamb into such a narrow opening, but I got lucky. Down the road from our old house is "R. Gray's bargain yard", a wonderful resource for scroungeing unusual building materials. The owner, Bill, came to my rescue yet again and found me an off-size, special order return that fit the opening, needing only a bit more massaging than your typical install.

 

 

It was fun to do some plain old carpentry again, so different from the stick and log work that I've been doing in Hawaii. After packing off all my tools to bring home to the Big Island, it felt funny to be packing them back to Oregon again, but at least I got to plane some wood. Electricity came in handy. I still miss my old tablesaw at times.

 

 

Ahhhhh, my old workbench......didn't ever get that project completed either, but at least the new owner is an eager woodworker. She'll finish it up nicely. She was psyched to keep my old saw and I'm glad that it found a good new owner.

 

 

I brought along a minimal assortment of tools, nothing fancy.

 

The TSA always gets a treat, looking through my baggage. They generally do a better job packing my bags than I do, and never skimp on the tape that holds the lids on he boxes, haha. A tough and thankless job, to be sure.

 

 

I was so happy to be planing wood again, I maybe went a little above and beyond on some of the tasks that needed completion. The attic railing (Port Orford cedar....such a great wood!) posts and balusters received a winding chamferred edge and a simple bridle joint attachment, draw-bored and pegged using bamboo skewers.

 

 

 

 

And finally, capped with some nice ribbon figured African mahogany that I was saving for a special place. The light was so bad, I couldn't get a picture. It definitely made the colors in the attic look off. Ewww, yuck!

 

 

If I ever figure out how to plane that curly, interlocked crap with a kanna and NOT get any tear-out, I'll share the knowledge. It's good to have goals, right? The 47 degree kanna that Dave gifted me would've been just the thing, had it been here – sigh.

 

 

So where was I?

 

Before I left, I had started on this post, some thoughts regarding an optimized tooth pattern for a Japanese saw I've been using for working green wood, but maybe this should be a WIP thing instead. Get this thing going before I forget what I've already done. An aspect of blogging that I love......I can show my mistakes. Maybe we both learn that way, hmmmmm?

 

So, spoiler alert. I'm not satisfied with this saw, so you might not want to jump right in and copy what I'm doing here. Not quite ready for prime time...... yet.

 

 

I need a general purpose saw that works well on green, sticky wood.

 

 

I've had this old bugger kicking around for a while, but haven't really felt the need to use it very often.....'till now. This was 1/3rd of a lot that I bought for $15 on eBay nearly four years ago and I guess it's time I put this thing into circulation. They sell even cheaper on Yahoo Japan, so have Murakami get you a bunch.

 

 

 

 

 

Felling trees, even the relatively small ones, using a pruning saw (much less using a trusted ryoba) is good meditative work, but when a tree is in danger of dropping onto my head, I want to get done with the task as quickly as possible, you know?

It's time to pull out the big(ger) guns.

 

 

 

 

 

The toothed length of this crosscut saw is a respectable 20" (about 510 mm) and the handle is nice and fat, perfect for two handed sawing. There are a few slight bumps to the blade that I still need to remove, as you can see from the slightly brighter spots on the body where it has been rubbing in the cut. Contact with the walls of the cut = friction, so hammering out the dents is a short list priority. You can also see a couple of lines of fairly severe corrosion that run diagonally across the blade. Bummer, but not the end of the world.

 

The farthest end of the saw where the teeth are largest has a vertical tooth angle. 0* rake angle.

 

 

90* and pointy, these teeth are similar to a rip tooth, but still have a front, back, and top bevel/facet.

 

 

I'm holding the file to show the approximate angle of the cutting face, around 75* or so. That would be 15* away from being a purely perpendicular rip tooth.

 

Not being the purely perpendicular face that you would see with a proper rip tooth, it's more of a hybrid, but this is a general purpose saw, I suppose. You might notice that I've already jointed the saw, the tops of the teeth are showing little flat surfaces.

 

 

 

 

As we approach the handle end of the saw, the teeth gradually assume a more relaxed slope.

 

 

These teeth are the familiar shape that you see on any crosscut blade, although the rake angle is more shallow than you'd see on a ryoba for instance, about a -10* rake angle. These teeth at the heel of the saw are probably shaped differently to make it easier to start the cut. The relaxed tooth angle gives a nicer shearing action.

 

 

The tooth pattern must have originally looked more like this example from a pruning saw manufacturer.

 

 

My saw is similar, but the saw in the photo above has both leading and trailing edges at much shallower angles, closer to 45* from the looks of it.

 

 

When I check my saw, the file shows a cutting angle of nearly 60*, so a 30* angle to the leading edge.

 

 

It's pretty much a standard crosscut tooth shape, although I'm going to try reducing the height of the teeth a bit, in orders to lend extra durability for cutting these dense Hawaiian hardwoods.

 

 

 

Rust is bad! Here is a closeup of the rusted area.

 

 

The tooth in the center has been polished using a hard novaculite oilstone and is tilted towards the viewer. Skip a tooth either direction and the two teeth at the edges of the photo are the rusty ones. The pitted rust on these teeth will prevent them from ever being truly sharp. Worse, the little pits will tend to hold onto little threads of wood fiber, increasing drag and tending to pull the cut to one side. Unfortunate.

 

 

 

 

So, this is all fine and dandy, but so far I am really just copying the tooth pattern as it is. The interesting points are that this saw has both a progressive tooth size AND shape. And of course, it has a hand forge-welded tang, the saw blade tapered in both length and height....all that good Japanese craftsman stuff.

What am I doing differently, you ask?

 

Every 5th tooth I mark with a pen, prior to filing the top facet of the teeth. The fifth tooth I will turn into a raker, to better clear away the wood waste.

 

 

 

 

I use the 5th tooth raker through most of the length, but leave the teeth closest to the handle alone.

 

 

 

 

 

In the interest of experimenting with saw tooth shape, I'm going to alter the shape of the teeth in stages, beginning with the rakers. The upper slope I'm going to start with is.....oh, maybe 12*, probably too shallow, although it's similar to the clearance angle you want for a plane blade.

 

 

Other than filing the raker tooth to a flat/chisel tooth, I leave the forward and trailing edges alone. It will be an admittedly crappy rip tooth shape, but I'm experimenting here, OK?

 

I give ALL the teeth a top slope of about 12*, but otherwise the other teeth are just copied as they were. Looking at the photos, I see that I need to work more on keeping my angles even from one side to the other. Everyone has a "strong" side, so it's just one more thing to give some thought to.

 

 

 

How did it work?

 

It cut. This is 8" of hard Ohia.

 

 

And.....it felt crappy, haha. Both slow AND grabby, the worst of both worlds! The saw was dull and slow before, but sharp(ish) and slow?!

 

 

How about something softer? A low quality fir 4x.

 

 

Awful. Those big ol' teeth grabbed those growth rings and tried to rip that stick out of my hands on nearly every stroke. The cut surface quality is terrible as well (at least for a Japanese saw). And slow. Or perhaps my standards are just too high. Nawww. It sucked.

 

 

So there ya go. Universal Japanese saw v2.0......epic fail. There are some obvious things that can be improved, tip slope angle being the principle suspect, but we'll have to see. It's rare that sharpening a tool will lead to a decrease in performance and this was pretty lousy, so something interesting must be going on. It sure gets me thinking.

 

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Japanese saws– salvage the junk

 

One of my new favorite saws is an old piece of junk.

 

 

Found in a water filled wooden tray, out in the wilds of Hawaii, it had some unusual company. A good (albeit rusty) saw set, a pre-1917 Disston keyhole saw, a 1950-ish rip kataba Z-saw (stamped Honolulu), and a weird Swiss-army saw/multi blade thing, among other stuff.

 

 

Well, I cleaned off some of the rust and it's not so bad really.

 

 

It's no work of art, just a tool, but I'm liking it a lot more than I had expected. As a "cut down anything then forget it outside in the rain" kind of tool, it excels. I've found that it holds a good edge, and the spring and temper was well done. It had no kinks when I found it, and we haven't introduced any new ones, despite our best efforts. The saw back is taper ground to a knife edge, so much so that I can use it as a machete for thick grassy stems. It has proven itself to be deceptively capable.

 

 

As is expected, it could do with some improvement.

 

 

It has probably been sharpened a few times already, but the nib on the nose still stands proud of the teeth. It needs to be made even with the teeth. More importantly, the teeth height is uneven, one side being longer than the other. Whoever was sharpening it had a definite "strong side". I know that because I do, too. Because the teeth are longer on one side, the cut drifts to the longer side, binding the saw at about 2" deep.

 

 

And, as I was saying in the prior post, the saw teeth are still not as clean as they could be. Let's see if I can improve things a bit.

 

Scrape 'em clean.....

 

 

.....then polish 'em up a bit.

 

 

FYI, sandpaper isn't the best way to do this, but if you do, try to rub parallel to the tooth itself. If you rub back and forth, it mostly cuts up the sandpaper and rounds the tooth shape in undesirable ways. Anyways, the sandpaper method didn't totally ruin anything, and may have helped improve the teeth marginally.

 

I use the edge of a really hard oilstone instead. It's WAY better. I just do the minimum required to get the outer face of the tooth bright. No matter which method you choose, this does reduce the amount of set some (x)amount. The less you do, the better.

 

 

Sighting the length of the blade, you can see that the nib at the tail of the saw stands proud as well as a few odd teeth.

 

 

 

 

I joint the saw using a standard western mill file, running the length until I see a bright tip at each tooth.

 

 

I joint at each sharpening, because I'm training myself and my body. If I was REALLY good, I could probably get away with 1 joint/ 3 sharpenings, but what's the harm? You're only going to get better if you work on refinement, and in my head is a picture of a saw with teeth of a perfectly even height, not just "good enough".

 

 

 

 

And what do I get for all my high talk of standards?

 

 

Haha! Missed a big 'ol dip...whoops! I see a bunch of low teeth, mostly on one side, my "strong" side.

 

 

Maybe two. Jeez.....what a hack!

 

 

When I sharpened, I changed the tooth geometry a little bit, but that's for the next post. I've been thinking about and researching saw teeth for nearly two years now, but it's only recently that I've been able to test the saws so rigorously. Living this off-grid, extreme bush lifestyle, I am cutting live wood, green sticks and lumber, lumberyard "dry" Wood, and a fair bit of aged salvage lumber as well. And lots of it.

 

One of our new neighbors kindly offered to bring over his generator and a bunch of saws for me to use, after I told him that I was cutting everything by hand. You try to explain that you are actually enjoying the act of cutting the wood, and anyway, you can't easily cut much of this stuff with power saws and....you get that half perplexed, "huh.... OK, whatever" look. It's good to have such generous neighbors though.

 

 

Even though the tooth height is less than perfect, it still cuts well.

 

 

The cut through this hard (wet) Ohia went faster than you'd think, and the saw tracked straight and true, no binding anymore. I guess that I improved it some.

 

 

The wet wood shows scars easily, but it looks like a couple of teeth are set a tad more than the others. The scars look worse than they are, and I can't feel them by hand, but it's not perfect yet.

 

Because the saw is severely taper ground, it probably had very little set initially, and after a handful of sharpenings, it's probably about ready for asari/setting again. The lack of set, combined with the light weight of the saw has the saw itself riding up at times, meaning that you need to maintain downward pressure as you are using it for a ridiculously deep cut like this. What's happening is that the improved saw teeth are cutting more efficiently and are making more sawdust in the process. The problem is that the teeth are still the same size that they were before, and now the gullets are too small to hold the additional sawdust. The next step for this saw would be to give it some raker teeth and a few deeper gullets, turn it into a little madonoko saw, maybe.

 

This saw is for smaller stuff, like 2" and under, but it's good to have the capability nonetheless. I was felling a couple of 6" guava trees yesterday with this little guy, and it was a bit of a struggle. Why I don't use my chainsaw is a mystery to me. Scares the birds, I suppose.

 

What I really want to write about are teeth. Japanese saw teeth.

 

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Some thoughts on sharpening Japanese saws– It's the little things

 

Lately I've been waking up in the morning and *reeeaaly* wishing that more people were writing about sharpening saws, Japanese saws in particular. I guess that I'm just obsessed, but saws have been in my mind for a while now, and I just can't get enough. 3 o'clock in the morning, and I'm wondering if it's too early to get out of bed and get back to work, sharpening more saws.

 

Yeah.....better not. It's too dark to see, anyways. Have I mentioned that we don't have electricity?

 

 

 

Almost nobody writes about this stuff, not even in the Japanese blogs. Sebastian has been doing a great job resurrecting the sharpening art, and Gabe is doing wonderfully with his big Maebiki-oga's, but.....I want more. What little I find amounts to :

• Here is a diagram of a rip tooth. Copy it.
• Here is a diagram of a crosscut tooth. Copy it.

 

 

 

 

 

The truth of it is that those directives are absolutely correct, and as a beginner, there is no better way. Look at what a "proper" tooth shape is, then emulate. When your saw starts to behave strangely, it's probably not your imagination, because they do get dull. Just because your saw is a superawesome Japanese tool, well.....it's just steel. Before it gets too dull and something nasty happens, point that bugger up. Freshen up those facets, it's not that hard. If your saw isn't too messed up, you merely copy what's already there. It's easy (almost). Assuming that you've got a decent, non-impulse hardened tooth saw....and a file.

 

 

 

Sebastian, Mark Grable and I went in on buying a Yahoo Japan auction lot of saw files, bought and shipped through the excellent kindness of R-K Trading Company (thank you, Murakami!). I'll tell you this....I'm never paying retail again! Admittedly, it seems like we did get a bit lucky, we got them so cheaply. I wish that we had bid on the other lots as well, but in any event, I now have an embarrassment of 75mm, standard cut, double edged yasuri feather files.

 

 

From what I've been able to determine, Japanese saw files come in a standard cut and a finer cut (called "aburame"). If you take two files, one standard and one aburame and place them side by side, you will see that not only does the aburame have a much finer tooth spacing, it also has a thinner cross-sectional shape. These particular 75mm files are almost a perfect cross-sectional match to my fine tooth aburame 125mm file, despite its being almost twice the size. All of these files are incredibly narrow, delicate creatures, but comparatively speaking, these 75mm files are bruisers.

 

These files are all NOS from an old hardware store or something, Tsubohi File Works and Co., God only knows how old....50 years? These files leave a relatively coarse finish to the saw teeth, not exactly what you'd want for a final sharpening. I've been sharpening every saw within reach, and so far I'm still using the first one that I pulled out of the box, so I would say that these Tsubohi files are both forgiving and VERY durable. What the hell am I going to do with the rest of the 4 boxes.....I need more saws, obviously!

 

Japanese yasuri saw files come double sided, as these are, and single sided fine cut, a seemingly rare beast. 80-90% of the files that I see at auction are the standard double sided, and this must be indicative of something. I see two immediate possibilities. Assuming that 50 years ago the manufacturer made an equivalent number of all types of saw files, we can see that everyone loved the fine tooth single sided files so much, that they used them all up. All that are left now are the sucky, hated, standard double sided files.

 

Or....

 

Standard tooth, double sided files were made in far greater numbers because they are such useful creatures and were used for such important tasks, that the stores needed to keep their shelves well stocked. I don't know, I'm just guessing, but I'm thinking that these files have a specific purpose.....and the fun is in the finding, no?

 

 

All this talk about files, but they are actually only peripheral today. Today is about the forgotten side of the tooth, the actual "side" of the saw.

 

 

I was working on a saw the other day and I took some pictures to get a better look at things.

 

 

 

Not horrible (aside from the gullets being sloped the wrong way....too much island bliss, I guess), but when I look closely at the "dark" side of the tooth facing the camera, I see little specks of light. Those specks will be tiny jagged areas, perfect for snagging stray wood fibers and clogging the action of the saw.

 

 

A few of us have been pestering Mark Grable mercilessly for tips and information, anything Japanese saw related, and he's been wonderfully forthcoming with his knowledge and experience. Often, the briefest statement will have broad influence, importance far in excess of its brevity. Nerdy though it is, I've got a document of "Grable'isms" that I read before working on a saw, and it's amazing how something that you've read a thousand times before, will suddenly being new insight into a problem you are having. Case in point, Mark has mentioned that it's difficult to know what you are seeing, if the saw is all dark and pitted with rust.

 

What?! Rusty saws?!

 

Being attracted to the old and neglected, all my saws are rusty to varying degrees. Check out these treasures.

 

 

The little rip kataba in the center you might remember as being the subject of an aborted series on saw rehab I never brought to completion. I may have "massaged" the poor thing to death, just as you can soften metal by using a planishing wheel. The narrow bladed saw just to the right of the kataba has become one of my favorites, though. Ugly, rusty little thing, but it's a handy blade shape for pruning and trimming green wood.

 

I've already sharpened this a couple of times –I'm currently sharpening the saws at the merest HINT of being dull–, but then I started thinking about the side of the saw tooth. This is the equivalent of the "back" of a plane blade. You can't get a plane iron sharp if you only sharpen the face and ignore the back.

 

Duh!

 

The simple solution to the problem is....well...I don't know.

 

Ignore please, my use of a file here.

 

What I am really doing is gently scraping any trace of surface rust from the sides of the teeth that are facing toward me. I'm using the forward edge of the file as a scraper because it is easily the hardest steel that I've got handy. Really handy, like, already in my hand, haha.

 

 

And for Sebastian.....This is the saw that I mentioned in you comments regarding your universal dozuki. It was originally a purely perpendicular tooth rip pattern, with all teeth being the same size. I gave it more of a short and fat crosscut shape, with a stubby top facet. I'm putting together a post on my experiments with varying tooth geometries, but it might be a little while before things slow down some.

 

This saw, like most others, has teeth with a slight set, so the teeth are slightly bent to a curve, not straight. To polish the side of the tooth requires a curved implement of some sort. I tried using a curved/rounded edge wooden block with some #220 sandpaper wrapped around it. A flat sanding block will just level out the sides of the teeth, leaving you a saw with no set. Binds-ville, man, Binds-ville.

 

 

It works, and if that's all you got, use it. It's a pain though, and the tendency of the sandpaper is to round over the edges of the teeth. That's bad obviously, so try to find something better.

 

 

Much better for me, was a little Washita sharpening stone with a radiused edge. Different saw, but the idea remains.

 

 

Hey! My saw grew another set of teeth! A synthetic stone was too soft for polishing the edges of the saw teeth. An Norton medium India slipstone would be perfect.

 

 

Edit: Added a pic Here.

 

Here you can get an idea of the polishing effect at the tops of the teeth, although these are far from perfect. Remember, only the teeth that are facing upward are being polished. The ones that face away don't matter. Small steps, incremental change.

 

 

More than anything though, this really seems to point out how skilled you are in setting the teeth, because every discrepancy leaps right out at you. It's a good opportunity to even things up, work on your Asari skills.

 

 

 

 

Of course, once I got started.....

 

 

The dark red stone next to the soap is a small offcut of a synthetic #1200 waterstone. I takes a few swipes with that first, to seed the surface with abrasive grit, then do the bulk of the rubbing using the much slower natural stone.

 

This revealed lots of lumps and bumps.....Oh boy!!!

 

 

 

Off to the anvil, just give me an excuse, any excuse.

 

 

The lighter spots are deviations from the average plane of the saw. Lumps. They aren't bad though, so my little tack hammer seems the proper tool. Many small strikes, focusing on the areas around the bumps more than the bumps themselves.

 

 

My point here, assuming that there is one, is that the smallest things can have large effects. The teeth of your saw will never be truly sharp unless the sides of the saw blade are clean and smoothly polished. A little bit at a time, if your saw looks as bad as most of mine. If I were to get the blade to a polished state, most of my teeth would be gone, abraded away in the process. Better is to sneak up on polished, taking a little off at each sharpening, so the edges get incrementally improved. With just a slight amount of work, I've probably made the saw 30% sharper, although cleaning and working the sides of the teeth actually dulled them a bit, so some touch up was required.

 

The big ryoba worked fine with those little bumps and dents along the blade, but as with the rust, it is better to have as straight a blade as possible. Less friction, and it's fun to hit things with hammers.

 

It's the little stuff, dontcha know.

 

 

Oh boy....it's finally getting light out. Time to sharpen something!

 

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A BIG madonoko saw!

 

 

So here is one of the saws that I have recently received.....a monster madonoko ("window saw", I believe....referring to the deep gullet that were cut into the saw plate to better facilitate chip clearance).

 

The original auction photo from Yahoo Japan auctions.

 

 

If you want Japanese tools, GREAT tools for WAY cheaper than anywhere else, it's the place to go. One small problem though....basically every seller will only sell within Japan. You need an agent. You can choose the official option, Buyee, but you will pay through the nose for the privilege, both in shipping and in associated incidental fees. A slightly cheaper option is to use.....

http://rk-trading.ocnk.net/

 

Murakami is THE MAN! and is a great guy, completely honest/truthful/helpful....the honourifics can go on, but he is a decent person. Be aware, though his English is good, it is a bit limited (although compared to my nonexistent Japanese....). He will find the cheapest options for shipping, advise on quality, and take a stab at what an item might sell for, so that you can best decide how much to bid. When you do bid, it will be a "sniper" bid, the only sane way that anyone should bid these thing, so there will be no foolishness about escalating bid wars. Just decide what you are willing to spend and call it good.

 

If you miss your chance, don't worry, because there will be MANY more opportunities. These old Japanese tools sell shockingly cheap (compared to if you buy your tools from catalogs), and there are LOTS of tools out there still. Also.....the general quality of the tools in the auctions will be much higher than most of what you can buy new. Hand crafted tools were the norm until just a few decades ago, so if you want a kanna that has a blade that was forged by an actual human being, sitting in front of the charcoal fire,....it's not that hard to find.

 

The same goes for the Japanese saws. All the best saws are hand forged, have scarfed, forge welded tangs, and have been carefully shaped by hand, using a Sen. If you can, buy one new, because there are only a handful of guys who still know how to do that and we all need to encourage the preservation of knowledge, and.......SECRET......You can buy a decent, hand made saw for under $100 usd. Even I consider that an insane bargain.

 

If you are poor like me.....you buy old tools at auction, through Murakami. The standard disclaimers does apply here, though. Expect the worst, and you will probably be pleasantly surprised.

 

 

 

So, it arrived. And......it got here in only 5 days! It's a big honking saw!

 

It came with an awesome wooden sheath (although the sheath needs some repair).

 

 

It's one of the bigger madonoko that I've seen come up at a auction.

 

It's in excellent straight condition, and sharp as hell. It continually amazes me how the old American tools you buy will be trashed and abused, while the Japanese tools are almost exclusively sharp and ready for use.

 

There must be a message there.

 

 

Signatures galore, but no idea what they mean. I should've asked Murakami how the kanji reads. Kanji is tough though, and many Japanese people can only recognize a relatively few characters, the others having fallen by the wayside hundreds of years ago. The hand carved kanji would be especially tough to decipher.

 

 

 

The flip side has more info, but the part I like.....that's the beautiful nearly-but-not-quite straight forge weld of the body to the tang. Evidence of the makers hand.

 

Really nice work. Maybe someday I can do half as well. Also interesting....notice the differing rates of corrosion, soft iron and hard steel.

 

 

 

This saw takes big bites, And is by far the largest saw that I've ever used. It has a pronounced tendency to dig in if you get the cutting angles wrong, so there is a level of skill to be learned. Once you get going, the sawing itself is easy. It's the holding down of the workpiece....that's the challenge.

 

The saw "dust" isn't actually dust per-se. It's more like long curled ribbons of planed wood.

 

You know that sound that a well tuned kanna makes as it rips off a perfect shaving? That "Skriieeench" sound? This saw sounds just like that, when things are working perfectly. I attempted to keep the cut on line, but I had to keep reminding myself not to pull too hard with my right arm, to balance the pull between both arms. The saw tried it's best to make up for my lack, but it was severely challenged.

 

 

The hardest part was the holding down the workpiece. The saw cut pretty fast, considering my struggles with jumping logs and my poor form. It took about 1 hour to rip cut this very hard and dense Ohia member. The cut was roughly 8" x 42" long. If I had a proper grip on the work it probably would've only taken 20 minutes.

 

I had made a saw horse for Renee, but the thing turned out so monstrously heavy that, rather than make a second "too heavy" saw horse, I took the one that was already constructed, ripped the thing in two, then cut some additional legs. That conserves resources, and the saw horses were too damn heavy to begin with.

 

 

I found it QUITE interesting, that despite my extremely poor form in using the monster madonoko, the surface that it left is generally smooth. Shockingly, considering how course the tooth pattern of is. The surface feels planed, or maybe more like sanded, about 60 grit.

 

 

 

The sawing itself was wonderful, much like working out on a rowing bench. For some reason, I've been craving exactly this type of movement, so not only will I be getting some much needed excercise, I'll also be gaining some wonderful new lumber. Productive excercise!

 

There is much skill hidden in this simple seeming task, so I expect to be writing more shortly. There are a few aspects of the madonoko saw design that I had been questioning, and even with my brief exposure to this saw, I'm getting it. If you look at the teeth of this saw, you will notice that the primary tooth pattern is two alternating knife-like teeth that score the wood fibres, followed by a third raker tooth that removes the waste. The deep gullet that gives this style of saw its name is necessary because the saw cuts so aggressively, it removes a lot of wood with each stroke and the waste needs somewhere to go without getting in the way.

 

 

At the front and rear of the saw though, the tooth pattern is the more standard Japanese crosscut design. That there are no raker teeth at the heel of the saw makes sense, because this is where you are starting the cut from. Rakers would make starting the cut nearly impossible. But why do you see the same thing at the front of the blade? Well, I ended up "steering" the cut quite a bit, using the front of the saw. Also, when there was something hanging up in the middle of the log, something that I couldn't see, I could pull most of the blade out and only use the nose to get the offending area worked down.

 

I have been holding off on buying a big "whale-back" Maebiki-oga (a special purpose rip-cut saw for big timbers) because I have been wondering if this style of saw would serve both purposes, cut both rip and crosscut. It's looking like it might work that way. This saw weighs about 7 pounds. A heavy maebiki might ultimately cut faster. What do you think Gabe? And what do your Maebiki-oga weigh?

 

I still want one though.

Oh crap, almost forgot. This saw cost about $40 usd, not including shipping (about $60 there) and there were no other bidders. Imagine what this monster would go for new.

 

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