It is the beginning of February and (Gasp!) we have snow! On the Oregon coast, go figure. This all makes makes me think of Rudy of Geological Specimen Supply, down in the California desert......
I keep going on about the ODC nagura that I use with nearly all of my sharpening stones. Yesterday I even used it with one of those India/Crystolon combo stones that I am getting from my friend Brandon and it caused such a notable change that I will be doing a separate post, just on that combo.
But for the record.....
I tried this, but it was a bit hard and my sample ended up fracturing. These are stones, after all.
The fragment worked great with this super hard chisel. That was WITH the ODC, though.
I also got a sample of welded volcanic tuff..... Interesting stuff.
Variable, pretty fast, and looks a lot like......
This is a photo from Tanaka Kiyoto and his AMAZING blog. To paraphrase, these are from different regions, but the center stone feels like tuff, while the ones on either side feel like sandstone, and the stone compare to a #400 grit. It turns out that a fair number of Japanese waterstones are volcanic tuff. Cool!
Here are some stone samples that I hope to try out in the near future....
VERY fine grain abrasive, might be too delicate?
If natural sharpening stones have one area that they do poorly in, it would be for coarse grinding. The rough stones have the reputation of dishing badly and being SLOW, SLOW, SLOW...... Is this REALLY the case? Coarse is a very relative term, but I am thinking of the #400-#1000 range. I have been using this sandstone that I grabbed off of the beach.... and the more I use it, the more I like it.
It feels very soft for a stone. Smooth, yet has a good crunchy sound, and is surprisingly resistant to dishing. About as good as my King 1200 synthetic, anyway. It IS kind of slow, but not as slow as you might think, is not muddy, but it feels like it would dissolve if you left it in the water bucket, so water control is important. I use it right after the King 1200, even though the grit is more coarse. It leaves a nice, shallow scratch pattern that is very easy to erase with the next higher grit, UNLIKE the K1200. When the weather breaks, I need to find a wider one.
Rudy has some interesting looking possibilities....
Looks like any number of coarse Jnats that I've seen.
VERY familiar looking, Kohzuke or Tajima perhaps?
LOTS of the better performing/faster Jnats are diatomaceous shale/slate.
I have been so pleased with the results that I have been getting with relatively local rocks that I start to think, "Why use Japanese naturals at all?"
Not much to look at and hard to tell the true color, but it appears to be a very light asagi blue. About 210-70-45mm or so.
A full skin (kawa) back, black with brown (or maybe just rust staining) and a hint of black kerasu. Kerasu stones have the reputation of being very strong sharpeners.
45mm thick! And even! This looks like unsold merchandise from an old Japanese hardware store and may never have been lapped. Patches of kerasu?
It looks to be a very fine grain composition and when I look REALLY close, I think that I can see very slight fractures of the working surface that you will see on some really hard stones before they have been polished. Think of very slightly translucent marble, if that helps. You can also see the tell-tale marks from a 1/4 sheet sander! This seller seems to hit all of his tools with one to "freshen" them up *sigh*. It doesn't seem to hurt his sales any, he is a real nice guy, very responsive, and ships super fast! japan-treazures
This stone reminds me of some pictures of other stones that I've seen.... Old Nakayama storm cloud asagi kerasu, blue ghost kerasu...
Interesting, but none of that really matters, these are just names to me. These are just dreams. What WILL be interesting is how the stone works. That is the realty.